Let’s have a conversation about fasteners, specifically bolts for 4 speed transmissions, all of ’em, the ST10, Muncie trans of all flavors and Ford Toploaders.
I often see people advertising the use of grade 8 bolts on their manual transmissions.
I don’t think this is a good idea. In fact, I don’t know of any 4 speed transmissions in the 1960’s or 70s that used nor suggested a grade 8 bolt.
When you get your tranny back from me, the curious like to peek inside. You’ll see a fair amount of lubricants used both to assemble the tranny and to prep the assembly for your installation.
I’ve found that problems can happen when too little or not enough lubricant is used in the assembly. When you are installing the shifter, you’ll want to be able to shift through the gears, and they could lock up if they are dry. This will cause the synchro ring to lock onto the cone of the gear. Not good.
Too much lube can prevent the gear lube from coating the gears under performance, so prudence in applying assembly lube is the order of the day.
Here’s some troubleshooting tips from Old Car Weekly when your T10 is hard shifting:
- Linkage is binding due to bent, worn, or broken parts.
- Lack of lubricant in the transmission.
- Damaged or worn synchronizer assembly.
You want to back up, your tranny wants to complain. Check these items:
- Worn or damaged reverse-slider gear.
- Damaged or worn reverse gears on cluster-gear assembly.
>It ONLY complains when you are in reverse:
- Worn or damaged reverse-idler gear.
- Worn reverse-idler bushings.
- Damaged or worn reverse gear on cluster-gear assembly.
More tips from Old Car Weekly.
Over the last year it has become more and more of a problem to find decent trannys from which to re-build Muncie transmissions. I’m paying more for poorer quality parts and that cost is getting reflected in the finished product.
Another problem is that the poorer quality parts require much more work and expertise to re-build. Cases that are torqued are an especially tough (and expensive) problem to deal with.